Wednesday, April 29, 2009

2009 – Week 2










April 23, 2009:
It was a great night last night. We slept well, and there were no trains or truck traffic. When I took Daisy for her morning g walk, I noticed that all the electrical boxes, connections, etc were about 6 feet off the ground. The nearby river is prone to flooding. We took showers, left at 9:30am and headed south then west to Van Buren MO. The dress of the day was shorts and short-sleeve shirts. Van Buren is at the south end of the Ozark National Scenic Riverway and the home to the “Big Spring”. This natural spring produces 152 million to 840 million gallons of water a day, or can fill a normal sized home swimming pool in 6 seconds. The color of the water is a blue-green, and Daisy loved swimming in it. The water percolates through the fractured limestone from various locations, the furthest being 40 miles away. In the interest of science, dye was put in the water in various locations. It was determined that the furthest source was 40 miles away and took 17 days to travel the distance. From Big Spring we headed south through one section of the Mark Twain National Forest along RT 19. We were surprised that while the road was often straight, it crossed rolling hills for miles on end. The distance between the crest of each hill was about 1/4 mile. Susie said “it was like riding on a rolly-coaster”. I thought that Daisy and would she be seasick before we had covered the 20 miles. Just to help the tummies along, we stopped at McCormick Lake and had lunch. We found a couple camping out there. They were covered with tattoos, the woman’s hair had been dyed bright red hair and the dog had the same bright red strip of hair down its nose. We never expected to see such getups in the woods: so much for stereotypes. Continuing west on US160 to Branson, we found cattle ranches and every house had a horse trailer and horses. It was obvious that the area had been logged, as the trees were very small in size. It didn’t seem like a forest products company was doing the harvest, as there was no systematic re-planting of a specific species of trees. We did see several sawmills and wood processing plants. We finally arrived in Branson and decided to have dinner in a local restaurant. The food was good, but there was too much. We had to pass on the blueberry cobbler. Branson is a city built on rock. Every place we passed, there were sheer limestone cliffs. Areas had been excavated waiting for a building to grow. There were no grass side slopes along the roads, only vertical rock walls. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a thing. The area of southern IL and southern MO has rock just beneath the surface. I am not sure what’s under the rolling hills, but I’m sure rock is close. We continued on to Table Rock SP located on Table Rock Lake. There is a very large marina here with mostly large pontoon boats. We drove a very hard 254 miles today with all the ups and downs, left and rights and roads with no shoulders. We’ll sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we’ll head into northern AK before heading west through Oklahoma City, Amarillo and into NM.

April 24, 2009:
WE had left the blinds up and the windows open last night because it was the warmest night of the trip. At sunrise, all the small birds awoke and started singing only to be overcome by the crows arriving around 6:30am. That was the last of my sleep, but Susie slept through. Susie worked hard on her drawings, but we had to leave before she was up to date. We headed south from Branson into AK on RT 7, and after many miles of ups and downs, we decided that we should stop going south and head west of I-40. We caught a glimpse of the Buffalo National River, and I thought it would be a great place to take a raft trip at another time. I have the sense that AK is a state that it would be best to select a spot and stay for a time enjoying the activities rather than going from place to place. We crossed into OK, went another 60 miles before deciding that the cross winds made the RV too difficult to control. We stopped at Lake Eufaula SP and turned the engine off at 6:00pm after traveling 280 miles. In the quiet Susie heard more Baltimore Orioles. One was right over our heads, scolding us for interrupting its dinner.

As the sun set, the winds died, and the birds quieted.

April 25, 2009:
Awoke this morning, and the wind was blowing hard again. We were in no real hurry, so we did some writing and drawing before leaving at 10:00am. The winds were from the south, and we headed west on I-40. I believe it was blowing 30k constant with larger gusts. This was later confirmed by NOAA weather. We drove and drove; saw a large array of wind turbines at the Weatherford Wind Energy Center in OK. All the turbines were turning happily. We stopped for lunch, and as I walked around the RV, I noticed that the exterior plastic access cover for the refrigerator was missing. Either it was stolen or the wind ripped it off. I bet on the wind. Of course it was Saturday, so no RV stores were open. Either Amarillo or Albuquerque will be the best bet. A bit later we stopped for gas and noticed two vans from the College of duPage Meteorology Laboratory. I walked over and asked if their presence was a sign of things to come. One lady, I assume a professor, said that were should just watch the sky and listen to NOAA. We kept driving west, noticing that the land was becoming browner and there were fewer trees. The eastern part of OK was green and lush with large pastures of cattle. We finally arrived in TX and stopped in Shamrock. We listened to NOAA, turned on the computers and found there were severe thunderstorm warnings in the area just to the northeast. Looking there, we saw large thunderheads and hoped that the folks up there were not at risk of a tornado. As the sun went down, the danger subsided, but the winds were still strong. Susie and I worked on our blogs. Hers is a bit more complicated and she’ll finish it tomorrow morning. We went to bed with the wind still blowing hard. We don’t think we could ever live here with all this wind, and the noise it creates.

April 26, 2009:
When Daisy and I took our walk this morning, we passed a rattling highway billboard. The vertical surfaces were made of sheet metal, and the noise scared Daisy. I suspect they are made that way so that they rip off in the event of a tornado. It is frightening to think of large pieces of sheet metal slicing through the air at great speed. The wind direction has changed to the southeast and the weather radar was clear (for us anyway). Well, just as I thought we were in for a perfect day, a very dark cloud arrived and the rain started. I thought it would be short, but then the hail started. At first the balls were about 1/4” in diameter and as time went on, they grew to 1/2”. What a racket! The storm was about 20 minutes, and we saw some clearing to the southwest as the cloud went northeast. As soon as we could get out of the RV, I unplugged everything, and we headed west. We drove to Amarillo and turned south to the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum in Canyon TX. The materials included geology, oil production, automobiles, native-american history, pioneer buildings, formal men and women wear and finally an art exhibit. We spent 3 hours there and moved on to the Palo Duro Canyon SP where we spent the night. We were here in 2003, but it was a very brief visit, and we hope to get a better feel for the place. This area of Texas is a flat as a pool table and the Canyon was caused by erosion over thousands of years. It is impossible to find the canyon unless happen to come to the edge. The canyon has a very large surface area, but is only about 700 feet deep maximum.
The exposed rock colors will test Susie’s ability to color them properly in her drawings. We put up the awning in hopes a sheltering the RV from the sun without any luck. At least it will dry out with the breeze and low humidity. We sat outside until sunset in enjoying the view and comfortable temperatures. We noticed several wild turkeys and saw numerous turkey vultures circling overhead. In Grand Canyon NP, the birds that circle are California Condors. The sun went down and so did the temperatures.

April 27, 2009:
We were awaken this morning by the mobile turkey alarm clock. Six turkeys wandered from campsite to campsite performing their version of reveille. I got down from the bed a bit later and took Daisy for her walk. Just in case the turkeys weren’t enough, there were some coyotes barking in the distance. We had breakfast and did some chores before leaving the campsite at 11:00am and took a slightly different way out before stopping at the Visitor Center to review the movie on the history of the Palo Duro Canyon.
Palo Duro was the hiding place for a native-american tribe who were unwilling to go to a reservation. It was a long time before the US Army was able to locate them, capture their horses and burn their supplies. The native-americans survived for one winter, but eventually surrendered and went to the reservation in OK. Settlers came and established ranches for their families in the canyon, as there was water there. We left Palo Duro Canyon understanding the area better than the time before as there were not many people here. We headed north towards Amarillo with the hopes of being able to purchase a replacement for the refrigerator cover. The third place we went was a Winnebago dealer, and we were in luck. It was now about 2:30pm, and we needed lunch. We had heard about the Big Texan Ranch Steakhouse and backtracked a few miles to go there.
This establishment has a special deal: if you can consume a 72 oz. steak with all the trimmings including an appetizer, it is free. There was one customer who was trying, but he didn’t make it and had to pay for the meal. Anyway our steaks were good, and we will not need much of a dinner. We left at 3:40pm after taking pictures of the establishment. We headed west on I-40, refilled with gas and crossed into NM where we experienced another time zone change. We are now in Mountain Daylight Time. We drove west to the town of Santa Rosa and stopped at the Santa Rosa Lake SP for the night. Santa Rosa Lake is a Corp of Engineers project and nowhere near full. We took Daisy for a walk and talked with a woman who is a full-timer. She has 45’ log rig and pulls a Jeep wagon with a road bike and kayak on top. She was going to head north towards Colorado Springs, but NOAA was forecasting a storm in the next few days that might be snow at the higher elevations. We tried to call Diana, our CO daughter, but no cell service. We were unable to hear NOAA either so we’ll check as we return to Santa Rosa before heading west to Albuquerque. We are now at 4,600 feet elevation and drove 230 miles.

April 28, 2009:
It was a quiet night last night. There were clouds and some breeze but nothing like the night before. We didn’t have a long way to go so we started late and headed west on I-40 to Albuquerque. We have been having some trouble with the electric every time we shut down the engine. When we do that the ‘house battery’ is supposed to take the load and provide electricity for the refrigerator, water pump, lights etc. When we checked into the KOA, we asked them for a recommendation for a RV repair place. It turned out that there was a Winnebago shop a 1/4 mile down the road, and we have an appointment for Thursday at 8:00am. This rig is now 11 years old and has more than 84,000 miles on it so things will start to wear out. We went to the Petroglyph National Monument (didn’t even know one existed until two days ago) and stayed for about 3 hours. We saw just a sampling of the estimated 20,000 petroglyphs in the area. There has been some vandalism but most is pretty good. There are also 4 dormant volcanoes that last erupted 150,000 years ago. These produced the lava rocks on which the petroglyphs have been scratched. Most petroglyphs were created about 400 to 700 years ago,but some may be as old as 2,000 to 3,000 years. When the Spanish arrived in the1600’s, a new series of petroglyphs of crosses and sheep appeared. Finally in the 1800’s the settlers chiseled their names and dates in the stone. The National Monument was established n 1990, but the State of New Mexico began protecting the area in the 1970’s. We drove through Albuquerque and noticed that while there are numerous new buildings and structures, there are also several closed shopping centers, chain restaurants, hotels. Most of these looked less than 10 years old. Albuquerque is a city located on the plains but ringed by numerous, but small in footprint, mountain ranges. To the east is Sandia Mountain with a top elevation of more than 10,000 feet. To the southeast is the Manzano Mountains, but Sandia is the most dominant. The KOA has an amenity that we have not seen before, and it is especially for Daisy. It is a K9Park with jumps, teeter-totter, etc. She really loved it when Susie took her for a second time just as the sun went down. As a side note, we have seen many more small RV’s as the days pass. There are still big ones, but there is some downsizing going on and the vehicles with the Mercedes-Benz diesels are more prevalent.

April 29, 2009:
Daisy took me back to the K9Park this morning as a start to our walk. The most successful toy of the morning was a small tire with a 12” piece of rope attached to it. She grabbed it and threw it around, abusing herself in the process. When we got up this morning, the temperature was 60 degrees with a relative humidity of 16%. I am starting to feel the effects of the low humidity with my sinuses drying out and sneezing. I read about the new flu in the news this morning. I hope it stays away from us. We are working on our blogs and planning the next few days. We are a bit ahead of schedule so maybe we can expand our horizons. We stayed at the KOA until a taxi picked us up at 4:00pm and took us to the Sandia Tram. This is the longest aerial tram in the world (or so they say) and provides a view to west towards Albuquerque and to the east towards nothing but high desert. Top elevation is 10,378 feet.We hiked for a bit along the South Crest Trail, but there was still too much snow, and we stopped. We did spend about 45 minutes sitting on the edge and watching as the shadows changed the landscape. We saw 2 large birds overhead but were unable to identify them. We talked with a family from FL who had taken their kids out of school in mid-March and will spend a year touring the country. They have been to many places we have been, but the wife isn’t sure that a year is enough time. They appear to be concentrating on the west.
We had a terrific dinner at the top. They were making a commercial that we may be in as cameo players. Unfortunately, we still had to pay for dinner. As the sun set, the lights came on in Albuquerque and the brown desert turned white. There were no lights to the east. We came down the Tram and took another taxi home. It was a great day. Tomorrow we have an appointment at 8:00am to see if we can get the RV electrics fixed.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

2009 – Week 1








April 16, 2009:
Thursday, our day to leave, but things happen. We had the RV tested for leaks the first week of March, but when we put it out in the rain, it was almost as wet inside as out. Back to the RV dealer, but they were unable to find the problem. It rained again on Tuesday and Wednesday, and it still leaked. Now, if you’re ocean racing, you expect some water below and can sleep in your foul weather gear. However, in a land dingy (small RV) …… Anyway, we didn’t get away today. We did make arrangements to stop by the dealer tomorrow and give them a photo of areas of leakage.

April 17, 2009:
We left home at 8:00am and stopped by the RV dealer at 9:00am. They looked inside and out, but were unable to find anything so we gave them the picture for the files and left. We drove west on I-70, I-68, I-79 then back on I-70. Anything to avoid the PA Turnpike. We drove 407 miles before stopping at the Buckeye Lake KOA at 6:45pm. Susie climbed up on the roof of the RV and taped the front window, clearance lights and a roof/side joint on the left side. She saw a suspicious caulk joint on the top of the window. When it rains again, we’ll see if the tape job stops the leak. Cross your fingers! We have started to discover stuff that we left behind: tablecloths, hair shampoo. But we have a wonderful tulip plant given to us on Easter by Kimberly’s mother-in-law, Cindy. It adds a bit of home to the RV. Susie has started her work on her pictorial book of the trip.

April 18, 2009:
Up at 7:00am took Daisy for a walk and as we returned so Susie headed to the shower. She was a bit perplexed since the steps we closed off. She looked at the map and headed off in another direction to another facility, only to find that one closed off also. Big problem brewing! The office didn’t open until 8;00am, and I was standing at the door. A very cheery lady was standing there, asking if she could do anything. Anyway, it turns out that there was a 3rd facility that had showers, but they had put an incorrect symbol on the map. It would have been nice if the desk had told us of this when we checked in. Oh well, we had breakfast outside and left at 10:15am and headed west on I-70 through OH to Greencastle IN, the home of DePauw University. We met Meredith and had a great Mexican dinner. The old buildings around the Greencastle town square are wonderful structures with limestone and brick walls with elegant cornices. The only building in the center of square was the County Courthouse. For some reason there are no sidewalks around the Courthouse, making it impossible to walk across the square. After dinner we took Meredith’s car back to the RV Park. Rain started to fall as we drove.

April 19, 2009:
It rained all night, and every time Susie or I awoke we checked for leakage. We didn’t find any but are still keeping our fingers crossed. We had breakfast with Meredith and then took a walk along the rim and across the floor of an abandoned limestone quarry owned by DePauw University. The quarry and surrounding land was donated, probably because it was worked out. It rain rained lightly during the walk, but it was enjoyable for the three of us plus Daisy. Back to town for brunch after which Meredith drove us back to the RV. We said out good-bys, unhooked the RV and headed west on I-70 and then south on I-57 to the Steven A Forbes SRA. NOAA weather had warned about flooding along the Wabash River (the border between IL and IN and the time zone change line), and we saw that as we drove along I-70. Gabby Garmin took us on what we thought was the craziest route, but we arrived after driving down numerous farm roads passed fields soaked by the rains. It will be a long time before the farmers can plant this land. We approached the Park from the north, entered the east entrance and drove around the southern side, finally ending up at the northwest corner to camp for the night. We stopped at 5:00pm CDT, took showers and worked on the blogs. The Park is almost empty, but it is very large, and we think it must be full in the summer. Meredith had helped Susie with Photoshop so hopefully the picture taking of her drawings and then moving them to the website will be easier. That would be great! Daisy is into the trip, and her visit with Meredith was great tonic. The sky is a bit brighter, and we are hoping for drier days as we wander through southern IL and the Ozark Mountains in MO and AK for the next several days.

April 20, 2009:
It rained all night last night, but there didn’t seem to be any leakage. OK, enough talk about water infiltration! Daisy and I took our walk under windy and clear skies. We had breakfast and decided where we would go today. A lot of driving, but it was interesting to see the farmland, often with flooded fields. One farm had a large assembly of solar power electric panels to support is operation. We finally came to the fast flowing Ohio River, which was out of its banks in low areas. We stopped at the Cave-in-Rock State Park along the Ohio River. The cave was used during the filming of a Davy Crockett movie and the Huckleberry Finn movie. We had lunch overlooking the river and then pushed on to the Ferne Clyffe SP
near Carbondale IL, stopping for gas and a Dairy Queen. We took two hikes in this park, one to a waterfall and the second to open caves in the sandstone cliffs. We then moved on to the Giant City SP about 10 miles away. We checked in and spent time downloading photos, calling around to find an oil change facility, walking Daisy, etc. This SP has showers, a great reason for staying here.

April 21, 2009:
What a great day this was! The skies were clear, the wind from the west at 15-20k and low humidity. We left the campground at 11:00am and took 4 hikes for a total of 6 miles. The first was a 1/2 acre site that was used by native-americans during the period 500-1000AD as a security point. It is a point of land that is impossible to scale on 3 sides and the 4th side was protected by a tall stonewall. We could tell that we were in the east because the trail was classified as “difficult”. If this was difficult, the walks we take in the Patapsco Park behind our house must be “impossible”. After this walk, we took a loop-walk (classification unknown) along the bottom and top of a sandstone bluff that was covered with various spring flowers. Susie had her plant book out, but we couldn’t make a match. The third walk was through the “Giant City”, an area of very large sandstone blocks that looked as if they had moved in various directions to create a maze of stone.

There is a discussion as to whether the chunks had actually moved or if dripping water over thousands of years had eroded weakened areas to create the impression of moving blocks. The last was the Devil’s Tabletop, a column of sandstone topped by a different stone that had prevented the erosion of the sandstone below. We learned that the reason this southern tip of Illinois is so different from the flat farmland to the north is that during one of the ice ages years ago, the glacier had stopped before grinding all this sandstone to dust before retreating. It is really a different area and a pleasant surprise. There is also a wonderful lodge, built by the CCC in the 1930's. It is rustic as are most of the larger ones built during those times.

We left the park at 3:00pm and headed south towards the city of Cape Girardeau MO, the closest place to cross the Mississippi River. As we drove we had our eyes open for an oil change facility. We stopped at one place, knowing that the doors were too low, but hoping they could direct us to one that would work. Just down the street to Jim’s Tire. We pulled in and were concerned that they had too much work, however the owner told us to put the RV out front, and they’d do the change right on the ground. All of a sudden there were 4-5 different guys changing the oil, greasing the fittings, adding coolant, changing the air filter and checking tire pressure. They were done, and the bill was $44. I couldn’t believe it, and said that they had done all these things and made sure they were sure of the price. Yes they were, we paid the bill and off we went. Still couldn’t believe it. Over the Mississippi River, north through the city of Cape Girardeau and into the MO Trail of Tears SP. We are camped on the Mississippi River, and as we arrived, a pusher tug and three barges were fighting the current as they headed north. As most RV Parks, we also have a railroad track between us and the river. Earplugs tonight. A bit of a story about Cape Girardeau: when we were first married we were given a waffle iron. Susie was making waffles, and the heat was so great that it melted the finish on the dining table. I wrote the president of the company, and he had a check sent to us for the full amount of the repair. I cannot image that happening these days. Tomorrow we head west into an area known as the “Arcadia Valley” in southeast MO. I’m not sure if it is considered to be part of the Ozark Mountains, but is very close. We need to do a bit of shopping tomorrow to buy the stuff we left home.


April 22, 2009:
A wonderful morning! There were no trains last night, much to the surprise of the people who had camped here before and much to our pleasure. We sat at the picnic table, drinking coffee and watching the Mississippi flow south at an estimated 5 knots. We saw another pusher tug trying to move 5 barges against the current. Big bow wave and propeller wash, but not much movement over the ground. Susie discovered two Baltimore Orioles making a nest in a tree overhead and was told by the SP Host that they had just come back from the wintering grounds and that there were at least three pairs every year. Seems strange that it is hard to find this species in Baltimore, but easy in MO. Off we went at 9:30am, shopped for missing stuff, food and gas before heading west to the Arcadia Valley to visit 4 SP’s. First we went to Taum Sauk Mountain SP. Taum Sauk Mt is the highest point in MO at 1,772 feet (not much when you compare where we’ve been). Unfortunately, the trees were still brown, and the view was disappointing. We are hoping that this is the low point of the trip. Next stop was the Fort Davidson Historic SP located in Pilot Knob MO. This fort was the site of a Civil War battle that left 1,200 casualties on the Confederate side and 200 on the Union. Approximately 12,000 Confederates stormed a well fortified emplacement defend by 1,450 Union soldiers. The battle lasted about 4 hours. Not as bad as Antietam, but still pretty awful. According to the exhibits, MO had the 3rd most battles in the Civil War. From there we went to Elephant Rocks SP. This is the site of a granite outcropping with numerous rounded granite boulders.
Someone thought they looked like elephant ears and so the name. The granite was created 1.5 billion years ago and had about 3 miles of cover at the time. Over the years the cover was removed and the granite worn to its present condition. The granite was used for buildings in St Louis and is now used primarily for tombstones. It was getting late so we headed south to Sam Baker SP for the night. First we tried to teach Daisy how to go on a bike ride (pretty successfully) and then took a ride ourselves. It was a relaxing time. The day warmed up enough so that we ended up dressed in shorts and polo shirts. Somewhere during the drive, we saw a camel in a pasture. Tomorrow we head west to explore deeper in the Ozark Mountains.